曲裾深衣
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曲裾制作注意事项一:鱼尾裙效果的由来
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这是马王堆出土的曲裾 应该是标准的…正确的说是“三绕膝” 它虽然叫曲裾 但实际上是一半直裾边(直角),一半是曲裾边(三角形)。穿时,拿着曲裾边的角,缠绕腿两圈,最后再用腰带固定上,它下面一般还穿肥大的裙子,当绕腿使得深衣收紧时,显得下面的裙子更宽大,像鱼尾一样散开,这就是我们看《汉武大帝》宫廷女装的感觉,这样,腿部收紧,下摆散开,更衬托出女性曲线的柔美来。更重要的是,它原来一半是直裾,另一半三角形的才是曲裾,这点是值得我们注意的!
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曲裾制作注意事项二:如果保持领缘舒展?
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绿缘开口问题应是续衽所致,是为了增加下裳的活动自由度。这样上衣和下裳处于半独立状态,配合腰带系于开口部位,不压住内襟,不至于约束了红线部位内襟的自由度。同时,上衣不会被向右扯动,脖子就会很舒展。
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图纸注解:
1、领子那里的尺寸我是表达挖开的孔的
2、右边的竖条可做标尺
3、中间的是排料图,未包括衣缘
4、图中布料宽为143cm,若不同幅宽需另外
长方形与那块大大的弯勾的布构成下裳,再除掉两个袖子,剩下就是上衣了,总共三块,其中那小三角是加在左衽的,那里有一只角露在布料外了。
直裾深衣
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襦裙
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半臂
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褙子
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