汉服,全称“汉民族传统服饰”,又称“汉衣冠”,从黄帝即位到公元17世纪中叶,在汉族的主要居住区,通过自然演化而形成的具有独特汉民族风貌性格,是中国“衣冠上国”、“礼仪之邦”、“锦绣中华”、“赛斯里国”的体现。
上衣下裳制
1.冕服(男子最高礼服)
主要由冕冠、玄衣、纁裳、白罗大带、黄蔽膝、素纱中单、赤舄等构成。是古代帝王举行重大仪式所服用的礼服。玄衣肩部织日、月、龙纹;背部织星辰、山纹;袖部织火、华虫、宗彝纹。纁裳织藻、粉米、黼、黻纹各二。即所谓的“十二纹章”纹样。另外,还有中单、蔽膝。均织织藻、粉米、黼、黻纹。此外还有黄、白、赤、玄、缥、绿六彩大绶和小绶,玉钩、玉佩,金钩、玉环及赤色袜、舄
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2.玄端 (祭服,礼服)
玄端,或称元端,是古代中国的玄色礼服,是先秦朝服的上衣。士冠礼、士婚礼亦用之。古代祭祀时,天子﹑诸侯﹑士大夫皆服之。天子燕居时亦服之。明世宗和内阁辅臣张璁参考古人所服“玄端”特别创制了燕弁服。自汉明帝将玄端朝服改为朱衣朝服以后,沿袭到明朝。玄衣用布十五升,每幅布都是正方形,端直方正,故称端。又因玄端服无章彩纹饰,也暗合了正直端方的内涵,所以这种服制称为“玄端”
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3.明制祭服 (祭服)
祭祀时所用的礼服。为各类冠服中最庄严的服饰。先人非常重视祭祀,所谓“国之大事,在祀与戎”
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4.衣裳 (常服)
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衣裳连制
1.直裾分裁袍 (除深衣,常服).
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2.深衣 (礼记狭义深衣,祭服,礼服)
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3.襕衫 (交领 / 圆领,礼服)
襕衫出现在唐代,流行于宋明。襕衫到膝处有一道接缝,称为“横襕”——一般认为这道横襕是对衣裳制古意的恪守而刻意加上的。襕衫领子多用圆领,后来的襕衫,大致也遵循了这一点,只不过领边变宽,并且接衽了。在古代,襕衫为职官公服,学子亦多穿着
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4.曳撒袍 (特定服饰,贴里袍,常服)
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通裁制
通裁圆领袍 (唐风,宋风,明风,常服)
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通裁制
长衫
1.道袍 (暗摆,礼服,常服)
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2.直身 (明摆,常服)
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3.直裰 (无摆,常服,便服)
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衣裤制
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裋褐,便服
罩衫
对襟类
披风,大氅
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《尚书正义》曰:“冕服采章曰华,大国曰夏”
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